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Operating under special use permit from the Uncompahgre National Forest, Grand Mesa National Forest,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Denali National Park
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Denali National Park
Copyright 2000/2011 Rigging for Rescue®, LLC - (970) 325-4474 - info@riggingforrescue.com - PO Box 745, Ouray, CO 81427
Rescue Belays:
Important Considerations for Long Lowers
Important Considerations for Long Lowers
Incorporating a belay system within a rope rescue system is common practice in
rope rescue because, although the probability of a mainline failure is low, the
consequence may be dire.
Mainline system failures have occurred and will continue to occur, but what happens as a result of those failures will largely be driven by (1) the inclusion or exclusion of a belay system, (2) the specific nature of that system and (3) how that system is managed throughout the operation. The outcome depends on, among other parameters, the length of rope in service. Many studies have looked at belaying with a few metres of rope in service, but little data exists for larger amounts of rope. This paper will describe initial examinations of the problem of belaying on long lowers.
Mainline system failures have occurred and will continue to occur, but what happens as a result of those failures will largely be driven by (1) the inclusion or exclusion of a belay system, (2) the specific nature of that system and (3) how that system is managed throughout the operation. The outcome depends on, among other parameters, the length of rope in service. Many studies have looked at belaying with a few metres of rope in service, but little data exists for larger amounts of rope. This paper will describe initial examinations of the problem of belaying on long lowers.
Rigging for Rescue is producing this video for
promotional purposes. It is not comprehensive
and is not intended to be instructional. Further,
Rigging for Rescue reserves all intellectual
property associated with this video.
Drop 2: 200kg test mass. Fall factor zero.
PMI EZ Bend 11mm rope. 30m of
rope-in-service using a Tandem Prusik Belay.
Approximately 2.75m of stop distance
observed
Rigging for Rescue is producing this video for
promotional purposes. It is not comprehensive
and is not intended to be instructional. Further,
Rigging for Rescue reserves all intellectual
property associated with this video.
Drop 4: 200kg test mass. Fall factor zero.
PMI EZ Bend 11mm rope. 30m of
rope-in-service using a Tandem Prusik Belay
while pre-tensioning the line using a DCD
'behind' the belay device (proximal to anchor).
Approximately 1.5m of stop distance
observed.
Rigging for Rescue is producing this video for
promotional purposes. It is not comprehensive
and is not intended to be instructional. Further,
Rigging for Rescue reserves all intellectual
property associated with this video.
Drop 13: 200kg test mass. Fall factor zero.
Petzl Vector 11mm rope. 30m of
rope-in-service using a Tandem Prusik Belay.
Approximately 4.5m of stop distance
observed.
Rigging for Rescue is producing this video for
promotional purposes. It is not comprehensive
and is not intended to be instructional. Further,
Rigging for Rescue reserves all intellectual
property associated with this video.
Drop 14: 200kg test mass. Fall factor zero.
Petzl Vector 11mm rope. 30m of
rope-in-service using a Tandem Prusik Belay
while pre-tensioning the line using a DCD
'behind' the belay device (proximal to anchor).
Approximately .75m of stop distance
observed.
Rigging for Rescue is producing this video for
promotional purposes. It is not comprehensive
and is not intended to be instructional. Further,
Rigging for Rescue reserves all intellectual
property associated with this video.
Drop 28: 200kg test mass. Fall factor zero.
10.5mm climbing rope (aka dynamic rope).
30m of rope-in-service using a Tandem Prusik
Belay. More than 5m of stop distance. High
elongation ropes - like a climbing rope - are
not appropriate as rescue belay lines.